View Full Version : '93 Lagacy AWD barely runs and no power

08-31-2009, 01:19 AM
I just recieved an automatic '93 Legacy AWD for free from a friend for fixing his daily driver. We had to tow it over to my house because it has absolutly no power. Now when I say no power i mean won't even propel itself to 1 mph. Now I have three problems with this car:

#1 If you press the accelorator pedal to the floor or anywere inbetween the rpm's increase by maybe 100 rpm tops. So I thought ok maybe a mass air flow sensor, unplugged it no change. Thought maybe an intake tube or the air filter is plugged and took the intake pipe off at throttle body, it made no difference.

#2 It starts up just fine and we just figured it had a plugged up converter because there was no exhaust pressure coming out of the muffler. So we started taking off the exhaust starting between the first and second converters, no luck. So we then decided to just unbolt everything, after we unbolted the rest of it from the engine it still acted the exact same.

#3 When you use the gear selector it has park, nuetral, and three drives no reverse. Park = Park, Reverse = Neutral, Neutral anything after that is drive.

If you have any ideas on any of these they would be extreamly welcome or even if you enjoy reading about my inconvenience go ahead and comment lol:D Thanks, Tyrell

09-05-2009, 03:33 AM
#1 check your air flow sensor, and also check to see if the exhaust are carboned up.

#3 reverse in the auto has fried itself, mine did this and I could have fixed it in the car, but it is better to take the box out and fix it and anything else that may have gone wrong.

09-05-2009, 11:25 AM
Does the car idle rough? Have you pulled the plugs to see if any of them are bad?

09-05-2009, 04:25 PM
no it doesn't idle rought considering everything else but that was the next thing i was going to do was take out the plugs and check thier condition and the gap. Also i got the car to flash me the codes it said the mass air flow sensor and the knock sensor are both faulty.

09-05-2009, 04:26 PM
What do you mean "fried" itself? Like the cluthches are burnt up or what? What do you have to replace to fix that?

09-06-2009, 02:56 AM
Sorry, just a phrase. It could be, as was my case, just a seal broken to any of the other reason why the reverse won't work.

09-06-2009, 09:32 PM
I see hmm well that would be nice if thats all that was.

09-07-2009, 02:55 AM
I hope it is in your case, but you won't know until you pull it apart.

09-08-2009, 11:34 PM
Ok well here is something that seems very interesting to me... while I'm waiting on my auction on ebay for a MAF (cheaper for a used one than to buy one from work ($220)) to end i was looking under the steering column at all the connectors and there was the black ones that you plug together to get the car to flash the check engine codes and then i saw these bright green ones that weren't plugged together right under the steering shaft. So i plugged them together and when you turn the key to the on position the fan relay starts clicking and turning the fan on then off about every 2 seconds or so. Then when you start the car it will now idle at 1000rpm for a sec or to then drop down to about 800rpm (mind you with these unplugged it idles at about 500rpm, no exaggeration). Then if you press the accelorator it falls on its face, about stalls then idle back down to about 500rpm untill you let off the accelorator then it'll idle back up to 800rpm. But if you ever so gently get into the accelorator it'll rev up till about 1100 or so then once you get higher then that it'll fall on it's face again. All the while the chech engine light is flashing code 22 (knock sensor). But if you unplug that and plug together the black connectors to just flash the engine codes it'll flash a code 22(knock sensor) and 23(mass air flow sensor). Oh and I did check the spark plugs they were fine, smelled a little rich but eh what do you expect, and the gap was about .043 so I nocked then down to .040, spec is .039-.043. I just found all that a bit curoius heard of anything like this? Think it's the knock sensor too? 'Cause I checked the timing and at 500rpm degrees advance is like 18 and with the green connectors plugged together and at about 1000rpm advance is off the scale so I would have to say high 20's to thirty.

09-09-2009, 01:26 AM
'Cause I checked the timing and at 500rpm degrees advance is like 18 and with the green connectors plugged together and at about 1000rpm advance is off the scale so I would have to say high 20's to thirty.

I'm on travel and away from my service info, but check your wiring disgram and see if that's the camshaft position sensor wiring. That might explain the bad timing. The black leads I used to leave hooked up all the time, since it has no effect on the ECU and getting to those leads was always a pain. By wife's Legacy threw the knock-sensor code and I could never get that one cleared, even with a new sensor. But the engine ran fine regardless.

09-09-2009, 10:12 PM
Well I read through our OBD 1 manual whisle I was at work today and the OBD 1 system on these older vehicles have four testing modes (in my opinion 3 modes):
Mode #1. U-check mode that does absolutely nothing but turns on the check engine light when something is wrong whisle your driving it (this is the mode that when none of the connectors are plugged in)
Mode #2. Read only mode is when you have the black connectors plugged together as explained in a previous post that flashes the codes when something's wrong
Mode #3. D-check mode is when you have the green connectors plugged together and apperently is for dealership diagnostics which in my case turned the fan on and off and some other stuff
Mode #4. Clearing codes which to do you have to start the car let the engine warm up with none of the connectors together, once warm turn off the engine plug both the black and in my case the green connectors together start the vehicle and let it run for a few seconds and that should clear the codes if the light doesn't go off then you didn't fix your problem and the codes are still there for a reason (or so this manual told me) so to me what this is telling me is I have a bad knock sensor. So I guess I'll buy one and see what happens unless you have any better ideas.

12-03-2009, 11:27 PM
sorry it took me so long to post my solution been busy, turns out it was the knock sensor! changed it and it runs great now and the tranny problem went away too! must have put into some kind of limp mode or something.

03-12-2010, 02:44 PM
Ok well when I switched the knock sensor the car started up fine and revved up like a normal car it fixed the trans. problem i had forward and reverse and I was then pleased but didn't drive it because I had the front calipers off because they were seriously dragging when I got it. I then went to go drive it about two or three weeks later and now it won't even start!!!:mad: When i plug the connectors for the check engine light together ot won't even flash me codes. It turns over just fine and if you touch the throttle a little it will start to turn over faster and almost start but as soon as you let go of the key it stops. It actually will turn over harder if you spray starting fluid in the intake. And before you suggest that it may be out of fuel i just put 4 gallons of fuel in it (I thought that too). You think the fuel pump took a dump or what? cause I can still here the pump kick on.